Lakesides of the Third World

     If you like to voyage in watery areas, investigate the many wonderful lakes that abound in the Third World, places of amazing cultural scenes, volcanoes, fascinating villages and practices and exquisite beauty. In our hemisphere, my favorite is Titicaca which sits between Peru and Bolivia. This is the highest navigable lake in the world at about 12,500 feet. A delightful train ride through the Andes takes the traveler to Puno, the main lakeside port of Peru. A brief reed boat ride to a nearby island takes visitors to one of the many, populated artificial islands of the Uros Indians. The Indians fashion these islands solely using the reeds that grow abundantly in the lake. The residents live on these small islands and make their living from catching fish which are then traded at the shore for their other needs and for food. They also weave interesting objects which they sell on the mainland and to visiting tourists. This is an amazing traditional culture and a mini-trip not to be missed. But there are many additional islands on this vast lake. My favorite is Taquile, a hilly island where another traditional society offers the wanderer incredible variations in dress and a cooperative where fine woven articles are sold. Be ready for a good climb if you visit this site however.

     Closer to the Bolivian side of the lake is the Island of the Sun, a hilly, unpaved terrain where one can still see many early Inca buildings. Not far away from there is the Island of the Moon, a former Inca nunnery. Even the nearby town of Casablanca from which one accesses the two islands is interesting. For one site of interest, stop at the big church on the square where you can have your vehicle blessed by the local priest on the weekends. Bikes, motorcycles, trucks and buses are all eligible. Bring a small offering to the church as a thank you gift.

    An even more beautiful site is in nearby Guatemala. Lake Atitlan is a deep caldera, surrounded by cone shaped mountains including three volcanoes. This is a Mayan area though the thirteen villages on the lake vary in their dialects, their culture and their dress. People speak one of two ancient Indian languages which are rather distinct from one another. Most of the villages are accessible from the lake. A public boat takes visitors to three of the more commercialized ones but more independent travelers can rent their own boat and pick and choose the towns which interest them. The return trip to Panahachel, the most popular tourist base can be rough in the afternoon. Our boat seemed to fly up onto and down from the waves that the wind had stirred up. Make your day trip an early one. There may not be a more beautiful lake in the world. And it's not very far away.

     While Asia offers many lake adventures, my favorite is Lake Erhai (Ear shaped lake) in Yunnan Province in the South. The best way to access this spectacular site is from Dali, the nearby Bai Tribal city. The Bai people wear traditional costumes and have festive and colorful markets to visit and they are only one of the colorful Chinese minorities in the area. On the lake itself, there is a large tourist boat (far too large for my taste) which takes people to several sites including an island with a very popular Buddhist temple. Another treat for the visitors is the cormorant fishing on the lake. If you have never seen how these captive birds are used by Chinese fisherman, you will find this just fascinating.

      Another amazing Third World lake is Inle Lake in Burma (Myanmar). The lake supports islands of fishermen as well as markets and temples galore. Most of the buildings are fashioned from bamboo and stand on stilts seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Vegetables are grown on floating islands and cared for by the fishermen of the lake during daytime lulls. In the evening, the lake fills with fishermen who row their boats with one leg while the other is placed on the gunnel of their boat. They toss their nets from this position as well as propel their boats. This athletic wonder goes on all night. It is not an easy life but it is colorful and takes place in a very pretty environment. Additionally, this lake is right in the middle of several minority groups, each of which offers a different culture to observe and learn from. It is a totally fascinating site.

     There are innumerable other places which rival the ones above. I will mention just one additional place that I found especially beautiful. Lake Van is the largest body of water in Turkey and is located in the less visited Southeast of the country. Unfortunately, the water is brackish and the fishing consists of only one small species which the people do take advantage of.  The lake is dotted with islands but the thing that I remember best are the cliffs and mountains that surround it and the especially intense colors of the sunsets one can see at the end of the day there. It, too, was one of the most beautiful places we have ever visited. Try a lake vacation. I think you will like it.

Irriwaddy River, Burma

Choosing the Right Time

     Wonderful, unique happenings abound in the Third World but it takes a bit of research to access them. I strongly recommend a search of holiday celebrations, memorial events, religious festivals and other special moments to be in a particular destination. All things being equal, it is more exciting to be in Salvador, Brazil during Carnaval or at least around Carnaval time to see the wonderful decorations and experience the lively spirit associated with that event. Carnaval dates and places are easy to ascertain but more obscure events take some tracking. When my wife and I decided we wanted to visit tribal societies in India, our research unearthed a celebration we had never heard of. It was called the Bhagoria Festival and it took place in several villages in Madya Pradesh, primarily in the tribal area of the Bhils and Bhilalas. It involved thousands of tribal peoples assembling in dusty towns, dressed and decorated colorfully and imaginatively for the celebrations, a horde of young men and women dancing and flirting and playing music on flutes and drums-all the trappings of a cultural get-together. The festival, we discovered, was an opportunity for young people to meet prospective spouses from other villages and overcome the distances and isolation caused by the sparse, rural nature of their living circumstances. The festival was worth the entire trip. Of course, we did have to stay in tents on the grounds of a local Maharaja to experience this party, but that inconvenience was a very small price to pay.

      I also mark our Bhagoria experience by the celebration of my 69th birthday in the dining tent where we and other members of our group met each day. (We almost never travel with groups but we had no choice in this case.) In the city where the group met right before our stay in the little village where the festival was held, some folks who knew it was my birthday bought a cake and kept it well preserved for my surprise party. It was a birthday I will never forget. Doing something special on a day which is already special to you is a doubly exceptional experience.

     There are happenings like the Bhagoria Festival all over the world. Almost every culture sponsors celebrations and parties of incredible diversity. These events not only offer a chance to see the people of the area but also to interact with them and take photos of various activities. In Mt. Hagen, a city in the hills of Papua New Guinea, there is a festival where the attendees paint themselves and wear meticulously fashioned, feathered wigs and all sorts of creative jewelry to distinguish one group from the other in a competitive setting. It is incredibly colorful and exciting. In India and Sri Lanka, there are Periheras or parades associated with some temple or other featuring dozens of painted elephants and bands and paraders of all kinds. In Southeast Asia, there are water festivals annually and events like Diwali and Holi are lively opportunities for visitors to India to interact joyfully with folks on the street.

     The difference between being someplace on an ordinary travel day as opposed to the unique time when there is a cultural celebration is probably best illustrated by my favorite festival of all- the Camel Fair of Pushkar in Rajasthan, India. Pushkar is a quiet town of some 15,000 or so inhabitants customarily. During the week of the fair, the visitors swell the population to over 200,000, not including the 50,000 or so camels that are brought to sell or parade or compete in the races. This great animal gathering is combined with a holy day for the God, Brahma, that brings many pilgrims into the city for purification in the lake. It is an incredible event which should be a travel destination for the curious and adventurous but only at festival time. Check out what is happening around the world before you go. You might want to organize your trip around those special events.

Bridge We Crossed, Sumatra, Indonesia

Don't Wait Too Long to Go to that Special Place

     In an earlier blog where I mentioned the indigenous Indians who can still be visited in Panama, I described the Embara of Panama whom I visited on two separate occasions about six years apart. The most dramatic observation I noted during my travel to that area was the enormous change that had come to the relatively remote culture in such a short time. The Embara were half naked in their villages the first time I visited and were now much more fully clothed. The children were almost all attending school by the time of my second visit and were trekking home in school uniforms. The folks we saw at lunchtime were serving us instead of our bringing prepacked lunches on our first trip and sharing what we had with them. The main house of the village was more organized and the formality of the visit had increased significantly. More canoe loads of tourists dropped by also. The most important change to this smalll cultural group, however, was their dependence on outside visitors for income. The government had recently provided help for that purpose but, in exhange, they had prohibited the group from hunting animals in their habitat. The hunter-gatherers were now tourist show persons. I guess a group can't change much more than that. The neighboring group of island dwelling Indians I mentioned in the previous blog had long since been "touristized". They were managing their islands like businesses, charging $1.00 per photo and selling artifacts clearly made for visitors.

    I fully support cultural development and economic improvement customarily. Advancements in agriculture, medical care, self-government, technology, etc. are generally beneficial to the people of the world. But the traveler should be alert to the impact of such changes on the uniqueness and history of the places and people they wish to visit. The most enlightening and interesting aspects of Third World Travel are the differences in how people live in various places. We Third Worlders look to learn from others and how they have adapted to the challenges that life offers them in their environment. Most of the recent changes in those cultures have been the product of assimilation into a larger, more homogeneous culture and these, in turn, tend to weaken the singularity of the group that offers the traveler and the world a special experience. We know how languages are disappearing rapidly from the world's richness and history and the same is true about distinctive subgroups in remote areas.

    So, travelers, the moral of this tale is Do Not Wait for some Future Time.  So many of us put journeys to the Third World (or any place for that matter) in the back of our minds seeking a perfect time. Often that time is an anticipated retirement or some other life event that may make such travel more opportune. While we are waiting, however, the world is changing rapidly around us. New governments rise and induce conformity in many places, i.e., Afghanistan, Libya, Venezuela, Ethiopia, etc., where indigenous tribal life morphs into nationalism.  New technology introduces information  to isolated peoples about the rest of the world and lures the group into competition to match what they see. Much of Africa fits this category. The internet, in addition to its being a very valuable new tool for knowledge is also a powerful culture changer. Who among us does not want to see more representative government in Egypt or Somalia, Zimbabwe or Cambodia. At the same time, adventure seekers who want to learn about the world with its incredible cultural diversity better get moving. It is still a challenging and exciting undertaking but the prospects of such adventures diminish as small cultural groupings with their unique ways of being, talking, honoring traditions and believing reliable narratives, etc. disappear from the earth we live on. Get going, fellow travelers.

Smile and Sadness, Lombok Island, Indonesia

Packing for the Third World

     One question that my friends and followers always ask when they are about to launch their third world travel experience is what they need to bring with them. There are two things to keep in mind when contemplating the answer to this question. The first one is that the people one is likely to encounter in New Guinea or West Africa, Nicaragua or Cambodia are likely to have far fewer possessions than we do. In some places folks own only the clothes they have on their backs- no substitutes, no closets, no fashion consultants, etc. It is hard to underdress for places where that is the case. The second point is that the movement from one place to another can be on a little plane or a small dugout canoe or a rickety bus in certain locales. One does not get luggage picked up at the door and transported to the next town. There may not even be anyone to help with the lifting of your packages. Unless you are on a luxury group trip to Timbuktoo (ha! ha!) you need to be aware of this issue.

     We almost never avail ourselves of laundry services even if they are offered at the places we stay. My wife and I carry three sets of under clothing and socks which we rotate. We wash each evening which gives us a change for each day and an emergency pair of everything. That takes little space in our luggage and does the trick for cleanliness and comfort. We then add in a pair of shorts or two, a pair of long pants, a sweater or jacket (depending on the weather), a couple of short or long sleeve shirts as needed, comfortable shoes and flip-flops for the shower or occasional beach visit. If you have special requirements or interests, you should have plenty of room.

     Our single piece of baggage leaves for the trip almost empty except for the items listed above. We augment the luggage with a small toilet article bag and my camera equipment. Since there is frequently an absence of available medicines in some of the towns we stay in, we take bandaids, aspirin, a general antibiotic and an antibiotic cream, an anti-itch cream, cold pills and lozenges, insect repellant, sunscreen and wipees (clean water is not always available) and tissues. We add on any medicines we take regularly. Make sure to carry these with you if you send any luggage through on a plane.

     What do we do when we need to dress up? We almost never face that problem. We have found that hotels and restaurants will take our mastercard no matter how we dress, we look at least as good as the people we are visiting, and we don't expect to see the people we meet ever again so making an impression is not a goal. Keep it simple, light and convenient. One additional tip is to leave enough space when you depart for picking up some of the wonderful artifacts you will encounter. On the way home, we send our remaining belongings (the stuff we don't throw out) home in a bag and carry the things we purchase in our luggage safely packed for our enjoyment upon arrival. Happy travels.

Tibetan Woman Spinning Wool

Keep Close Tabs on your Travel Guide

    Although we travel alone whenever possible, there are many occasions when we need a guide to ensure communication and to keep from getting lost or delayed. We try to select knowledgeable people from the area we are traversing and we are generally quite pleased with the services we have gotten from these people. We usually save time, have unexpected and rich experiences and get to see places and events we might otherwise not have discovered on our own. But we always keep in mind that our guide may not know what we really want or what our deepest interests are. That's why initial research, a guide book and a strong notion of our priorities enables us to make sure that we go where we want.

    A dramatic instance of this was on a trip in the center of the island of Sumatra in Indonesia. We were rolling along in a car toward a small village where we eagerly anticipated witnessing a very strange and unique bullfight that occurs on their market day. I had been reading my guide book along the way and realized that we would be passing one of the rare habitats of the Rafflesia flower, the largest flower on our planet and I was awaiting a stop at that site. At some point I asked the guide when we would reach the forest where the flower grows and he informed me that we were well past that area and that it was not on our itinerary. I replied, "Oh, no!" We were not going to pass up that once in a lifetime opportunity. The guide insisted he could not turn back and indicated that he had to follow the directions of the itinerary. I demanded that we stop at the next town and call the agent for whom he worked. He reluctantly complied. We received the approval from his office to turn around and go back about an hour or so to the location I requested. We got to visit the little village closest to the site of the Rafflesias, got a couple of village youngsters to help us find our way through the forest to where they grew and had a wonderful experience that we will never forget. Our unhappy guide waited for us to complete our trek and continued the drive to the fascinating bullfight that was on the itinerary.

     While the moral of this tale is to make sure you do not miss the Rafflesias along the way, it is also very important that the traveler let a guide know his or her special interests. On a trip up the Mahakam River in Borneo, I mentioned to our guide on the boat that I was a mask collector and had a special fascination with such artifacts. At one point, we pulled into a dock in a tiny village along the river and the guide instructed us to get out and follow him. We walked along a narrow dirt path about a half mile until we came to a hut where the local mask maker lived. He was making masks that are very unique for an upcoming New Years like ceremony that was to take place there. I was able to purchase a magnificent mask from the man who made it in that Borneo jungle village. It is one of my favorite artifacts.  Take control of your trip as much as you can. Your travels will be richer and your satisfaction greater if you follow this suggestion.

Rafflesia Flower, Sumatra, Indonesia

Our Costumed World

     One important way to know that one is actually in a Third World area is the difference in dress encountered in so many of these areas. For those who are interested in cultural variation and interesting photography, places where Western style outfits are the only form of dress usually offer less excitement and opportunity. One does not need to leave our hemisphere to experience dramatic variations. I have mentioned Chichicastenango, Guatemala in an earlier blog. Almost all the Indians in the area wear colorful embroidered blouses or shirts and very distinctive costumes, especially for holidays and celebrations. Not much farther south in Panama, there are several different tribal groups who dress in a unique fashion from the scantily clad  Embara forest dwellers to the commerically influenced Kuna Indians who live on the nearby islands. South America features additional treats from Otovalans in Ecuador with their very distinctive necklaces and Panama hats to the ubiquitous women's dresses with bowler hats, multiple skirts and varied embroidery of Bolivia. Peasants in the hills of Peru tend their sheep wearing colorful home made skirts and blouses. Many villagers dress this way throughout the Andes.

     Africa and Asia offer many more opportunities to experience the wide variety of dress that traditional peoples have created for themselves. In Yunnan Province of South China alone, there are many different groups with totally unique forms of dress from the Bai People to the Yi to Tibetans who have moved to the area and many others. The dressmakers from this area are highly skilled and the costumes extremely elaborate and pleasing to the eye. We stumbled upon a market near Lake Erhai in Yunnan where every single person was dressed in their distinctive cultural fashion. The many tribal peoples in Southeast Asia also distinguish themselves as coming from one village or area by their dress alone. One cannot fail to recognize the Hmong or the White Karen or the Yao people simply by what they wear. Of course, what we are accustomed to considering traditional Indian dress is common in most of the villages of that country as is the dress of rural Chinese but each of these vast nations has scores of tribal people as well who maintain their own traditions and decorations. These are a treasure for the curious and a great opportunity for the photographer.

     Africa offers fantastic variations as well. While there are amazing costumes from the tribes of Niger to the heights of Ethiopia, many of the groups in this area distinguish themselves by face and body painting as well as by dress. Traditional peoples are scattered throughout the continent. One can find find incredible tribal dress in Namibia and equally compelling outfits in the deserts of Mali or Mauritania. The South Pacific area is equally rich in the clothing of the people (or lack of it.) From the hills of New Guinea to the many islands off its coast, people paint their faces often on a daily basis with careful detail and imaginative forms. Their decorating may even be one of the most important and time-taking activities of the day. Among the many treats of Third World travel is the incredible variation that men and women have utilized to cover or decorate their bodies. Take a good look as you travel along.

Woman Smoking Cheroot, Burma

Take the Kids with You

     Shhh! Don’t tell anyone else about this. I am not sure Guatemala wants foreigners to know this place exists. We did not encounter a single other American when we were there. It took a third trip to Guatemala and the accompaniment of five young kids for us to discover an unadvertised, virtually perfect family retreat in this otherwise alluring country. Although some Americans avoid Guatemala because of crime and occasional hysterical travel warnings from our our State Department, we have found the country to be a land of immense fascination, variety, beauty and friendliness on each of our trips. At any rate, going there does have to be within a visitor’s tolerance for the advertised risks. Mind you, we don’t hang out on back streets in Guatemala City at night, nor do we travel on lonely highways after dark. But we are not alone in the hotels either; many European and Mexican visitors and quite a few other Americans brave the journey to delight in the many colorful sites.
     This time we ventured forth with our family and had to plan accordingly. We had only eight days to ensure our kids and grandkids sampled the many pleasures we enjoyed on our own previous trips and to build in kid fun as well. We found what turned out to be a spectacular site, namely, a complex of lovely hotels alongside both an amusement park and a water park located in the town of Retalhuleu, a three hour drive west of Guatemala City. The complex belongs to an organization called IRTRA.
     The legislature in Guatemala passed an ordinance in 1962 to help businesses offfer recreation to employees. These parks were a product of that initiative. Now, there is a place where Guatemalan workers can enjoy a Disneyworld-like vacation with their family for an affordable rate in this generally poor country. I hope Americans don’t ever crowd out the pleasant, vacationing workers we met there by taking too much advantage of this nearby bargain holiday site. For members of IRTRA, a double room in a brand new building (we had five people in one of our lovely, spacious and spotless rooms) costs about $30.00 a night. Outsiders pay about three times that amount. Less expensive but very adequate hotel rooms in other parts of the complex can be had for less than $50.00 a night even for foreigners. The official name of this resort is Los Hostales del IRTRA. We stayed in a section of the complex called Hostal Panajunoj which consists of five separate, attractive hotels built in styles that range from African to Polynesian to Mayan, each distinctive and sparkling new. On the site of Los Hostales are also three restaurants (the food is only fair), four hotel complexes, beautiful flowers and trees, three pools, a jacuzzi, a mini-golf couse and more.
     As if this alone were not enough for a family getaway, a little train takes you from the complex to to the equally inexpensive amusement park and the excitng waterpark just outside the hotel area. It was Disney-like indeed, except for the absence of long lines, the managable dimensions of the area and the affordable prices. With their entrance ticket for either of the recreational parks, the kids could go on whatever rides they wanted just about as often as they liked. Lots of local visitors come to Xetulul, the amusement park, or to Xocomil, the waterpark, on day trips so the best time to visit is on a weekday when there are fewer Guatemalans and no lines at all.
     While Xocomil features river-like rides and splashing , giant slides with screaming kids spilling down pretty man-made scenery, the amusement park is also easily worth an entire day with its roller coasters, wild rides and mild rides, ambitious reproductions of European cities, lots to do and plenty to eat. An all inclusive entrance ticket (enough rides for anyone) cost $6.00 for IRTRA members, about twice as much as for visiting kids and $22.00 for other adults for the day. A full day at each of the two parks and two or three nights at the hotels makes for a relaxing and very enjoyable time for all family members.

Great Markets of Our Hemisphere

Markets are a traveler's delight, especially in the Third World since almost all the activity occurs outside right under the nose of the curious visitor and in focus of the avid photographer. In such places one can truly experience the essence of the culture- the dress, the interactions, customs, foods and cooking, and often many activities we are more accustomed to hiding behind walls in our cities. For me, there is no better destination when I am traveling.

I cannot recount all of those places which have fascinated me but I want to suggest a few should the reader be venturing into the neighborhood. At least two of them, and arguably more, are available in South America. My favorite is the colorful Andean market of Tarabuco in Bolivia. It is populated by traditionally dressed women with bowler hats and wonderfully woven and decorated traditional dress, but the market features the greatest assortment of hats one can imagine, some of them imitating miners' head ware, others replicating the headgear of the conquistadors. As with all markets, there are very special local items for sale. In this case, the detailed weaving of the area are the real gems. But you can also buy one of the piles of coca leaves if you wish, or the many ceramic items in the stalls.

The rival market in South America is in Otovalo, Ecuador, a few hours drive north of Quito. Again the distinctive dress of the Otovaleno Indians captivate the viewer immediately. The women wear brightly embroidered blouses and skirts as well as gold colored beaded necklaces which are quite distinct. Men often have long hair arranged in braids and equally unique dress. There is a grand animal market here and every which kind of local crafts including very varied wooden carvings. On market days there are thousands of people selling and buying at stalls spread over an enormous area.

A third favorite of mine in the Western Hemisphere is the town of Chichicastenango in Guatemala. It is by far the most accessible to Americans and could not be more bustling or colorful. The local residents are descendants of the Mayans and one would think the ancients still ruled the area judging from the worship customs, the parades, the dress and even village dialects. Here wooden masks abound as well as wonderful, colorful embroidered blouses and all sorts of woven goods.  As with all great markets of the Third World, there are special days when everything is open and available so the visitor must be aware which days feature which markets.

While Asia features countless great markets, I will save a description of those for another entry. Wherever the tourist travels to visit these special places, it is important to arrive early before tourist buses descend and it is recommended to spend at least the preceding night in the town to avoid the crowd and to see the vendors preparing for the market day. Before touring an area, find out about the most interesting market and the day it is held. You will enrich your trip measurably by such research.

                                                                 Market, Kashgar, China

A Travel Highlight You Will Never Forget

     There are countless wonderful sites around the world that beckon the traveler. One place I would recommend from my many years of globe trotting is Varanasi, India, the ancient city of Benares. I often call India "a wonder a day" travel location and that notion surely applies to this city along the Ganges River which is considered the holiest site of all by the many millions of Hindus who populate the country.

     One gets up at dawn for an uncanny and unforgettable experience along the river. We arose as the mosquitoes outside dive bombed our glass door to the garden, got dressed and met our guide outside. In the dim light of early dawn, we all descended the hill from our hotel to the riverside. We were not alone, even at that early hour. Alongside us were Indians heading toward the heart of their pilgrimage. They were silent and serious as they made their way down the path. It was still relatively dark when we reached the riverside.

     We boarded the small row boat that was arranged for us and headed toward the middle of the Ganges. The only sound we seemed able to hear was the splashing of the oars. As we looked back we saw the large steps or Ghats slowly filling up with Hindu devotees many of whom were fulfilling a lifetime dream by immersing themselves in the holy water. Our boatman put a small candle on a tin plate to float it down the river as an act of devotion as had many others.  The sparkle of the candles stretched down the river as far as we could see.

     As the sun rose slowly in the distance, the spirituality of our experience became overwhelming. The Ghats were filled with thousands of worshippers, the old run down hotels on the riverside loomed above the scene and fires were set for the many cremations that were to be done that day. It is a Hindu dream to be present there and to perform absolutions in the river or be cremated along its shore in Varanasi. Hindus who are able to do so will bring a dying relative to the riverside, stay with them until death, and then place their body in the fire. That is their ultimate act of devotion. For us, the whole experience was like a dream. Although we have been present at many religious ceremonies and activities, we were never quite so enveloped by any other scene. It would have been worth the long journey to India for that experience alone. It was truly a traveler's highlight.

Bedouin Girls, Beach, Sinai, Egypt

Another Gem in Mexico

Mexico City is another very convenient destination for Americans who are seeking knowledge and adventure and don't want to be tripping over too many of their compatriots along the way. I know that many folks fear violence in Mexico but most of that is in the border towns and Mexico City is not especially dangerous for a city of over 20,000,000 people so long as one takes sensible precautions. I love the place. My wife and I have been to Mexico about 20 times over the past several decades and each area offers its own special qualities and interests. Mexico City has more sites of interest than anywhere else in the country.

The giant central square of the city, called the Zocalo, is a day or two undertaking in itself. It is usually filled with vendors especially around holidays, the large Cathedral sits at one end as is customary in Colonial design, the beautiful National Palace beckons covered with Diego Rivera's murals of the history of the country, and the architecture of the buildings is interesting all around the square. Not far off the square is an Aztec dig and museum that are beautifully done and well worth an afternoon's visit. The Art Museum and many restaurants are nearby as well. If you come at holiday time, you will see the square filled with people, vendors, dancing Indians and every which thing.

What does one do after that visit? Head out to Chapultepec Park where the spectacular Anthropology Museum sits. It happens to be my favorite museum in the world. The displays are dramatic and tasteful and the artifacts cover much of the pre-Colonial times in Mexico. It is a wonderful treat. There are other nearby museums but this one is not to be missed. Mexico has a flair for developing attractive and informative museums generally.

Another compulsory visit in the city is the Church of Guadalupe where Indians come in from the hills and perform dance ceremonies to worship and ask favors. It is the holiest site in the country. Some years back a new church was built to acccomodate the traffic and it is a very interesting building.

Then I would go to the amazing site of Teotihuacan not far outside the city where pyramids rivaling Egypt stand at the two ends of an ancient and mysterious city. There are buildings where the paint from two millenia can still be discerned. The Pyramid of the Sun, the largest at the site, can be climbed and the view is dramatic. This is a most interesting pre-Colombian site. These are among the many offerings this city offers the traveler in search of adventure.

Chichen Itza, El Castillo, Mexico